1.) Windows/Screens: If there are any cracked/broken windows, damaged or missing screens, they may be written up in the report. Don’t panic. Just repair or replace what you choose in order to keep it off the report. If any double glass panels are “fogged” due to the seal being broken, it will probably be noted as well. These can be surprisingly inexpensive to replace.

2.) Peeling Paint: Paint doesn't last forever. It's important to identify if your home needs new exterior paint before selling. Look for cracked, chipping, or bubbling paint around the exterior of the home, and areas where moisture builds up. 

3.) Cracked Caulk: Caulking is important to seal a home from extreme weather conditions. For this reason, many home inspectors will look for cracked caulking around doors, windows, and water areas. This is an easy one to fix. Just purchase some high-grade caulking that fits the application needed and take care of it before the inspector shows up.

4.) Siding/Trim: Check for any loose boards that need to be refastened or replaced before a home inspection. If replacing exterior siding, be sure to match it to the original colour and texture to leave a uniform look.

5.) Decks & Fences: Check for boards that need to be replaced, and see if any railing is loose. Check the framing of the fence for loose panels, and secure them back in place as needed.

6.) Positive Drainage: Make sure there is nowhere directly around the outside of the house that rainwater could flow TOWARD the house. Water should do just the opposite for the first 3 feet. This might mean a little shovel work. Also, make sure that any surface downspouts pour 3’ away from the house or into a tray that does the same.

7.) Gutters: If the gutters are in need of cleaning, that may end up on the report. It's best to clean the gutters before listing your home for sale. This is particularly important if you have a two-story home that overlooks gutters from the upper level windows. Clean gutters send a message to the buyers that the home has been well maintained. It's an easy chore to knock out.

8.) Roof: A bad report can be at the top of the list of things buyers fear. You could be proactive and ask a roofer to give you an estimate on minor repairs (a tune-up). If you decide to do the repairs, you can then ask for a “Roof Certificate”. This will help put the buyers at ease.

9.) Heat Pump/Air Conditioner: The unit on the outside of the house should be free of leaves and bushes to allow it to cool properly. Simply clean the area around the outside units to ensure that they are not obstructed by debris. 

10.) Garage Door: Do a simple test. Open the door, have someone hit the button to close it, then wave your foot in the path of the infrared beam (electric eye path near the ground). It should stop then reverse the door back to open position. Next, repeat this - except instead of waving your foot, grab the door with both hands and make it stop. It should offer some push against you then reverse back to open position. The inspector will most likely perform both of these tests.

11.) Heating/Cooling/ Water Heater: If your furnace is many years old, you may wish to consider having it inspected, so there’s no surprises later. You may wish to actually replace your water heater if it’s several years old. This is usually a relatively minor expense, and can help facilitate a sale.

12.) Showers/Tub Surrounds: These often get written up for cracks in the grout, or caulked joints. This can easily be fixed ahead of time if you are handy. Just match the grout colour and texture and re-grout the damaged areas to make the tile look new again.

13.) Ceiling Fans: Most home inspectors will test every ceiling fan in the home to make sure that they all work properly. Be sure that you replace any broken fans before listing your home for sale.

14.) Light Bulbs: Replace any that don’t work. Yes, they will actually check all lights (not lamps). While you're at it, replace any of the cold "curly" flourescent bulbs with new "warm" LEDs.

15.) Electrical: For about $10, you can get an outlet tester at any home improvement store. This will inform you of any outlets that will fail the inspector's test (yes, they test every single one, inside and out). Some of these testers have a button to check GFI (ground fault interrupter) outlets. GFI outlets are usually located at wet areas: garage, exterior, baths, kitchen, and laundry depending upon the year built, because of changing codes. These outlets can also be protected by one device:

• either a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlet or
• circuit breaker located in your main electrical panel.

Speaking of the panel, make sure it’s easily accessible. All switches, outlets and junction boxes must have cover plates without cracks. There can be no exposed “Romex” (home in-wall wire). It must be in a metal or plastic conduit.

16.) Plumbing: Fill all sinks halfway, then pull the plug to see if they drain normally. If slow, it might just need the P-Trap to be cleaned. Check in cabinets, under all sinks for any moisture on the bottom, supply lines or valves (use a dry paper towel and check by wiping).

17.) Toilets: All toilets will be flushed and noted. If there is a leaking sound before flushing, it’s probably the flapper valve. These cost $5-12 and need no tools to install. Toilets will also be checked for secure mounting (they shouldn’t move).

18.) Safety Detectors: Test all smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors. Better yet, replace all batteries and test to ensure they function. Note that safety detectors are mandatory in some jurisdictions. 

19.) Stairs: The balustrade (entire baluster system) will be checked for sturdiness. If any of it is loose, you might want to have that repaired before inspection.

20.) Kitchen Appliances: The inspector will run the dishwasher through its cycles, turn on all range/cooktop burners, oven, vent fan & light and if included in the sale, check all functions of the refrigerator. Repair or replace any appliances as needed.

Windows: All windows will be opened, closed and re-locked. Hard movement or failure to lock will be noted. Some of this can easily be improved by cleaning tracks/guides and using a clear spray silicone from a hardware store.

Interior - General: The inspector will note each room for things like moisture stains, drywall cracks, loose flooring, or uneven floors.


Some homeowners have neither the time nor expertise to throughly check and vet their home prior to listing. Depending on the age and condition of the home, I've at times recommended that my clients hire a home inspector to review the home, before it’s listed for sale. The inspection report helps the client know what to expect, and also helps them prioritize any pre-sale repairs.


 

What type of property are you looking for?

• Do you want a year-round recreational property, or a seasonal/summer home?

• Will you be hosting extended family, friends or renters?

• Do you want Internet connectivity, or are you going offline? If you plan on working remotely, you'll need to confirm not only good Internet and cell connectivity, but the quality of that connectivity. You may wish to, for example, join a local Facebook group and ask for feedback from your potential new community.

• Do you seek seclusion, or wish to be part of a community?  In general, most all-season rural or island property owners don't want to feel too isolated, and want to be fairly close to neighbours in case of emergency

• How close do you want or need to be to amenities, such as grocery stores, pharmacies and hospitals? Most recreation / rural property buyers prefer to be within 30 minutes or so of a small town where these types of services are available, and within three hours or so of a major urban centre. 

• Do you require electrical and indoor plumbing, or are you “roughing it”?

• Do you need a boat house and dock, if you're looking for waterfront?

• Do you want extra buildings such as a guest house, storage shed or workshops?

BUDGET CONSIDERATIONS

There’s much more to owning a recreational property once you pony up for the purchase price. Consider these: 

• Insurance

• Property tax (Note: The Gulf Islands, Bowen, Gabriola and other island properties are currently exempt from the BC Speculation and Vacancy Tax. It's prudent to at least factor in the possibility of increased taxes as part of your budgeting prcess.)

• Utilities

• Maintenance

• Home alarm system 

• Commuting costs (ferries, fuel)

• Use and entertainment

• Required or desired renos and upgrades

Once you have those questions answered, and are ready to go the next step, keep the following in mind as you search: 

PRACTICAL CONSIDERATIONS

1. How long will it take to get there? If dependant on ferries (e.g. Gulf islands), how many ferries, any reservation issues, and how often do they run?

2. What can you build on the lot? If on the Gulf Islands, what are (the powerful) Island Trust rules?

3. What are you looking at? Sun in the morning or afternoon, or none? (West is best.)

4. What are the redevelopment or building limitations, the zoning bylaws, environmental restrictions, etc. 

5. What are the nighbours like? Talk to neighbours - what sort of folks are they? Will they help watch your property? Any by-laws you ought to know (not told to you by owners) and of course the big questions:

ROAD AND WATER ACCESS/USE

• How do you access the property? Private road, public road, Crown land, unauthorized access across private or Crown Land? 

• What is access like in the winter months? You'll want to ensure the roads are well-maintained and accessible, particularly during winter.

• Does the property legally include access right to the shoreline? Are docks, boathouses etc. sitting on private or public land?

• Are there proper permits for any docks included with the property? This is a relatively new issue, in light of new government regulations against illegal docks. Read about the issue here. While the issue has been confined to Pender Harbour on the Sunshine Coast thus far, other coastal areas may be next. 
  
  

HOUSE 

• Is the house built to code?

• Are there outbuildings on the property? Any building over 108 sq. ft. may need a building permit. 

• Does the house have an oil tank?

• Is it conforming zoning or is it non-conforming? Never assume zoning can be changed by getting dispensation from the zoning authorities. 

• Is the home well-insulated for winter use? Is the heating system sufficient for the size of the property? What type of cooling systems does the home have, if located in one of BC's hot climate areas? 

• Have you familairized yourself with the types of systems the home uses? Some properties featuree dug or drilled wells (see below), and source water from nearby rivers or lakes. Does the home have a septic tank? Is the household garbage picked up by a waste management service, or will you need to transport it to the local landfill?

 

WATER 

• Is the water safe to drink? Are there recent reports confiring this?

• Water well ... running at 1 or 10 gallons an hour?

• Is it a shallow well or deep well? Is there a water storage system?

• Does the well produce water in the dry summer months? Like now?

• How many wells are in the overall area tapping the same water?

• Is the well actually on your property, or a neighbour’s? (Check the land survey and title.)

• What potential ownership/usage issues might there be with any ponds, streams or other bodies of water on the property? See this recent cautionary tale: https://bit.ly/2F0x3Q2

SEWAGE 

Bad septic fields could stop your enjoyment cold ... never mind cost a fortune.

• Does the septic system work properly (or at all)?

• Has the tank been pumped, when last?

• How old is the septic system? Is it a gravity or pump system? How old is the pump?

• Can you see or smell it? Also see dollar bills floating in the air ...

• How close is the septic field? Is it uphill or downhill from the well?

• On rocky surfaces ... is the tank above you or below ... pumps?

• What about the neighbor's septic field? How close is it?

• The Sewerage System Regulations have been changed in 2005/2007. Did the owner comply?

BEACH 

In Canada, you do not own the beach. Your property ends at the high water mark.

• Does the property have sensitive shoreline status?

• If it's low bank, is the beach leased out to a clam operation?

• Is it a "let's party" beach during the summer?

• Is there a water license?

A client of mine searching on Gabriola a few years ago came up against another key consideration: Archeological sites. The property he considered purchasing was adjacent to a beach with potential historical First Nations significance. We obtained expert reviews to confirm that the site was in fact not historically significant. However, recently he began plans to build a new home on the site, and is once again needing to work through the myriad bureaucracy to assess the potential historical significance. Just something to keep in mind. 

As with all property purchases, it pays to do your homework, and work with a Realtor who has your best interests in mind.